A few weeks ago I traveled to Montana for an annual beer writers conference known as the Beer Now Conference (formerly known as the Beer Bloggers and Writers Conference). Prior to traveling, I decided to expand the trip into a “beercation” to allow my wife and I to explore the western portion of Montana.
To many, the term “beercation” simply means driving to different places and drinking beer. However, for me beer provides the inspiration and mechanism to discover, explore and learn about an area. Beer and brewing are typically interwoven to a region’s history, geography, industry, economy, culinary, and social fabric. Hence, a “beercation” can provide a rewarding and unique approach to traveling. In fact, the Beer Now Conference reflected the importance of beer and brewing to Montana’s fabric by featuring speakers or sponsors from organizations that represented not only brewers but also city and state tourism, agriculture, historic centers, and restaurants.
Montana, also known as “Big Sky Country”, is the 4th largest state in land area. However, with a population of just slightly over a million, Montana ranks only 43rd in United States population.
Numerous mountain ranges and Glacier National Park reside in western Montana.
Stopping at Two Medicine Lake in Glacier National Park, Montana
The eastern half of the state consists primarily of prairie terrain and badlands.
Mesmerized by “Big Sky Country’s” prairie view
And Montana contains about 170,000 miles of rivers and 3223 lakes. Two continental divides intersect in western Montana, making the state one of few geographic areas in the world whose rivers form parts of three major watersheds. The watersheds divide at Triple Divide Peak in Glacier National Park, allowing rivers to feed the Pacific Ocean, the Gulf of Mexico and Hudson Bay.
This spot marks the beginning of the Missouri River
These water resources provide for recreation, hydro power, crop and forage irrigation, mining, and water for human consumption.
Visiting Great Falls dam and hydro power station
Montana’s water is also key to its thriving beer industry. Overall, the beer industry contributes about $1.3 billion annually to Montana’s economy. Craft beer production and sales comprise a significant portion of that economic impact.
Montana’s Craft Beer Sales & Production Statistics (data from 2017) – Courtesy of the Brewers Association
Beer also drives a significant portion of Montana’s agriculture as the state is the 2nd largest producer of barley in the United States. An area known as the “Golden Triangle” provides ideal soil for producing wheat, barley and other crops. Montana farmers grew 46.8 million bushels of barley in 2016 according to USDA statistics. Malt barley is more valuable, and this area is particularly good at producing quality malt barley.
Communities in the Golden Triangle largely depend on the economy that wheat, barley and other crops provide.
Our Western Montana Trip
Our trip started in Missoula with the intent to work our way north through Glacier National Park and then down to the Beer Now Conference in Great Falls. After the conference we headed south through Helena, the state capital, and Bozeman. And from Bozeman we proceeded to Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming.
Our trip route included most of Montana’s major cities and many historic sites
Our trip route also focused on Montana’s densest concentration of breweries – Map courtesy of Montana Brewers Association
Missoula
Located along the Clark Fork River near its junctions with the Bitterroot and Blackfoot Rivers in western Montana and at the convergence of five mountain ranges, the Missoula Valley was heavily traversed by native tribes that periodically went to the Eastern Montana plains in search of bison. The traffic often led to conflict and the valley entrance became so strewn with human bones that French fur trappers would later refer to this area as Porte de l’Enfer, translated as “Gate of Hell“. The Lewis and Clark Expedition brought the first U.S. citizens to the area, camping there in 1805 on their westward journey of exploration. Later, the city of Missoula began as a trading post established in the 1860s.
Photography courtesy of the city of Missoula
Today, Missoula is considered as one of Montana’s cultural centers. Parks, forests and trails abound. Montana’s first university, the University of Montana, resides in Missoula. And the Missoula International Airport makes getting to western Montana easy.
Author Norman Maclean grew up in Missoula and wrote about it in his 1976 autobiographical novella A River Runs Through It. The work was adapted into a 1992 motion picture of the same name, directed by Robert Redford, starring Brad Pitt and Craig Sheffer.
Missoula is also home to Montana’s oldest and largest breweries – respectively, Bayern Brewing and Big Sky Brewing.
When visiting breweries in Missoula and throughout Montana, one important Montana law you need to know is that breweries can’t serve beer after 8pm.
Bayern Brewing
Don’t miss Montana’s oldest brewery when exploring the Missoula beer scene. Known as the “only German brewery in the Rockies”, Trudy and Reinhard Schulte founded Bayern Brewing in Missoula in 1987 with Master Brewer Jürgen Knöller at the brewing helm. Literally translated, Bayern (pronounced Bye-ern) means the German state of Bavaria. In 1991 Jürgen Knöller purchased the brewery when the Schulte’s decided to return to their native country of Germany. Knöller and Brewmaster Thorsten Geuer brew German-style beers in accordance with the German Law of Purity (Reinheitsgebot) of 1516.
You’ll find a wide variety of year-round, seasonal or specialty beers on tap and available in bottles. Bayern Amber debuted in 1987 as their first beer and is still the biggest seller. This Marzen style beer has rich malt flavor with a smoothly balanced hops finish.
During our visit, I was thrilled to see a rauchbier on draft. Rauchbier is a German-style lager brewed with “rauch” (smoked) malt. Green malts are dried over an open fire of beechwood, imparting a unique smokiness to the final beverage. Rauchbier originated hundreds of years ago in the Franconian district of Germany, most notably the town of Bamberg. There are still nine breweries within the city of Bamberg, and two of these have become synonymous with traditional rauchbier — Bauerei Schlenkerla and Christian Merz Brauerei Spezial. Expect toasty-rich malt in aroma and flavor, restrained bitterness, low to high smoke flavor and an attenuated finish. Bayern’s rauchbier was so spot on in appearance and flavor that I could easily imagine myself visiting the town of Bamberg once again.
Bayern proffers a comfortable tap room and outdoor beer garden to enhance your drinking pleasure. To compliment the beer, the Edelweiss Bistro at Bayern offers a variety of traditional German dishes made with fresh ingredients.
Big Sky Brewing Company
Started by Neal Leathers, Bjorn Nabozney and Brad Robinson, Big Sky Brewing opened in 1995. The Big Sky Brewing production facility and tap room are located near the Missoula Airport. Today, Big Sky produces 40,000 – 47,000 barrels of beer annually. Head Brewer Matt Long produces a wide range of year-round and specialty beers. We accidentally ran into Matt Long when stopping him on the street to ask for directions to a nearby museum and ended up giving him a ride to the airport.
Far and away, Big Sky’s best known and most popular beer is their “Moose Drool” American brown ale. Brewed with 4 different types of malt and 3 different hops varieties, Moose Drool delivers subtle coffee and cocoa flavors followed with a mild bitter finish. At 5.2% ABV, Moose Drool is perfect for hot day quaffing. Big Sky Brewing also recently started a line of canned Spiked Seltzers.
Imagine Nation Brewing
Imagine Nation bills itself as “the country’s 1st combination of microbrewery and center for community transformation.” A key philosophical aspect to their mission is that good beer can serve as a vehicle towards greater service to the community. Celebration and dialogue provide the model and mechanism to “joyfully address the challenges of our time and fuel social change…”
Montana beer writer Alan McCormick, a Missoula resident, met my wife and I for some delicious beer (be certain to try the Freedom Fighter IPA) and friendly conversation. Overlooking Clark Fork River, Imagine Nation’s outdoor patio provided a wonderfully scenic and relaxing meeting spot. Alan expertly described the Missoula and Montana beer scene to help guide us through our western Montana travels. Be certain to check out Alan’s blog: Growler Fills | Craft Beer Enthusiasm.
More Missoula Area Craft Beers
Interested in more Missoula area craft beer? Then be certain to visit these other excellent locations.
Conflux Brewing: Missoula’s newest brewery/restaurant provides outstanding food and some solid brews. I particularly enjoyed the subtle poblano chili smokey flavor of their Chili Nelson brew with my shrimp and grits.
The Dram Shop: Montana’s first dedicated, stand alone growler fill station. With 33 taps, this bar provides a wide selection of Montana craft beers as well as beers from other parts of the country and world. Furthermore, because The Dram Shop is a bar and not a brewery you can buy beer after 8pm.
Draught Works: Located in a historic neighborhood, this brewery started in 2011. This family friendly brewery offers a large selection of tasty craft beers and even brews their own root beer.
Highlander Beer: This brewery traces its roots to 1890, but the current brewery opened in 2015. The TapHouse boasts indoor seating year round and a large patio that is open in the summers.
KettleHouse Brewing: Boasting a wide array of award-winning beers, this brewery has multiple locations in Missoula. However, I recommend the North side brewhouse/taproom which is capable of producing 30 barrels (930 gallons) of beer per batch and tends to offer a wider array of unique beer choices.
Lolo Peak Brewery & Grill: Located about 11 miles southwest from Missoula, Lolo Peak provides a rustic setting with 12 beers on tap and unique food.
Tamarack Brewing: Tamarack originally opened in Lakeside, Montana in 2007 along the west shore of gorgeous Flathead Lake. Tamarack also opened a location in Missoula in 2011. This is a very popular spot for beer and food.
Summary
Missoula provided a great spot to begin our adventure. We enjoyed hiking, visiting local attractions and trying some delicious food paired with excellent craft beers. Certainly Missoula’s beauty, culture, friendliness, historical significance and craft beer provided inspiration and enthusiasm for continuing our discovery of western Montana.
Next Stop – Kalispell and Glacier National Park
After Missoula, we proceeded to Kalispell and then Glacier National Park. This portion of our trip will be covered in my next installment of “Discovering Western Montana Through Beer”.
Fascinating ! Makes me want to go on a similar trip. Thanks for sharing