A few weeks ago I traveled to Montana for an annual beer writers conference known as the Beer Now Conference. My wife and I expanded the trip into a “beercation” focused on exploring western Montana. Part 5 is article in this series about this trip and covers exploring Bozeman and beyond through beer. If you haven’t read Parts 1, 2 3, or 4, then before reading further please click here for Part 1; click here for Part 2; click here for Part 3; and click here for Part 4.
Bozeman
In 1863, John Bozeman and his trusty side-kick, John Jacobs, established the Bozeman Trail, a side trail off the famous Oregon Trail. The Bozeman Trail ran through the future city of Bozeman, across the Gallatin Valley, and up to the mining town, Virginia City, Montana, which lies on the western side of the Gallatin Valley in the Tobacco Root Mountains.
Today, Bozeman is a picturesque college town nestled between four mountain ranges and located just 90 minutes from Yellowstone National Park. Bozeman averages 300 days of sunshine. The region’s dry climate results in pleasant summers (warm days, cool nights). Mild winter weather is not uncommon.
Bozeman boasts easy access to world-class skiing, fishing, hiking, rafting, and more, making it a paradise for outdoor enthusiasts. And within the last couple of decades, the city has become a booming hub for high-tech companies and entrepreneurs. As the home of Montana State University, Bozeman radiates a college community vibrancy and energy. Furthermore, the arts, museums and a local symphony provide the catalyst for cultural pleasure and diversion. Consequently, Money Magazine named Bozeman as one of the best places to live in the U.S.
Aerial view of Bozeman and the Gallatin Valley. Photograph courtesy of Montana State University.
Gallatin Valley Brewing History
Some sources say that Montana’s first craft brewing industry began in Virginia City, Montana Territory in 1863 – by Thomas Smith, Christian Ritcher, and Henry Gilbert. They started “Thorn-Smith Brewery”, which was later renamed to “Virginia Brewery”. However, research by Montana Beer Historian Steve Lozar of the Polson Beer Museum shows that Johnny Grant opened one in 1859 in Cottonwood City, now Deer Lodge. In addition, there were also two breweries in the town of Silver Bow that opened before 1863.
In Bozeman, beer-making history began in 1867 by German immigrants, Jacob Spieth and Charles Krug. They started the “Spieth and Krug Brewery”, also known as “Union Hall” and “Maxey Block”.
According to Michael Fox, history curator at Bozeman’s Museum of the Rockies, “Brewers and breweries were some of the earliest community-building operations in Montana. Breweries were pretty much one of the first things built, usually before the church, in fact.”
Bozeman Breweries Today
Today, Bozeman is home to a number of breweries (currently 10 by my count). We only had one night in Bozeman so I couldn’t visit all of them. However, I did manage to visit 5 breweries.
406 Brewing Company: A homebrewer since college, Matt Muth opened 406 Brewing in 2011. The brewery gets its name from Montana’s telephone area code. My wife and I met Matt while visiting the brewery. His passion for beer and brewing were immediately obvious.
Matt Muth loves discussing beer and brewing
The tasting room consists of a large, L-shaped wooden and copper-clad bar offering views of the brewing vessels. The tasting room’s bar, tables and stools are made almost entirely with recycled materials.
These tables and chairs were made from recycled lumber.
You’ll find 10 different beers on tap. I highly recommend the “Putin’s Revenge” Imperial Stout. This 10% stout delivered huge coffee flavor with a invigorating boozy punch. I loved it!
Say да (da) to Putin’s Revenge
Bozeman Brewing Company: Fondly known as The Bozone, Bozeman Brewing Company is Gallatin Valley’s oldest operating craft brewery. Founded in 2001 by Todd Scott on the edge of the town’s historic Brewery District, the tap room serves a diverse list of seasonal ales, lagers, and sour brews.
The Bozone Zone
Their flagship beer is the Bozone Select Amber Ale. However, I was partial to the AndSolt Gose Black and the Plum Street Porter. The brewery also features a sour beer program, with over two hundred wine and whiskey barrels used to create small-batch recipes and limited releases.
Another day, another yummy taster flight
Hungry? Then just head outside to Follow Yer Nose BBQ.
Just follow yer nose for some BBQ
Bunkhouse Brewery: Owner Andy Stohlman, an Air Force veteran who taught Montana State University’s ROTC program, opened Bunkhouse Brewery in 2015. In his words, “The Bunkhouse is committed to bringing back some of the old brewing conventions, making beer with both purpose and passion. We choose our beer varieties with an eye to Montana’s brewing heritage.”
Andy Stohlman pours my beers
Bunkhouse’s Head Brewer, Nicholas Velasquez, offers a surprisingly wide range of beer styles with their 8 taps. Of the beers I tried, my favorite was the Down Home Girl Imperial Red Ale (9.8% ABV). Deep red and somewhat hazy in appearance, this slightly boozy beer delivers wonderful malt caramel and smoke flavors. Delicious!
MAP Brewing Company: Owners Dash Rodman and Patrick Kainz teamed with Head Brewer and Siebel Institute graduate Doug Child to start MAP Brewing Company. Located next to a lake, this must-visit, beautiful brewery provides indoor and outdoor seating.
The outdoor vista is stunning
The brewery grounds and tasting room are teaming with art – sculptures, paintings, fixtures and more. Many of the paintings came from the Laurel Hatch Studio in Bozeman that specializes in western wildlife artworks.
A small sample of the eclectic art at MAP Brewing
You can order food from Map’s Grill. Our food orders were delicious. On nice days, I suggest you sit outside and enjoy the spectacular view while eating.
Food and beer…… Nom! Nom!
During my visit, I met with fellow beer writer and friend “Daddy Porter” (you can check out his blog at www.daddyporter.com) and MAP assistant brewer Ian Nidetz. I tried a wide range of tasty beers. Don’t miss trying their Buzzed Hippie Kolsch, Soul Charger Scottish Ale, Midas Crush IPA, STrange Cattle IPA, and Dank Vader Imperial IPA.
Daddy Porter and Firkin Ron say…
… try a beer flight!
Mountains Walking Brewery & Pub: Gustav Dose, the founder of Mountains Walking and director of brewing, grew up in Taiwan and Japan and studied brewing around the world. When it came time to put down roots, he and his wife decided to raise their family in Bozeman. Gustav is committed to the ancient traditions of brewing and is interested in beers made with living cultures that have naturally lower alcohol and sugar levels.
There’s a lesson in Buddhist philosophy that compares humans to mountains.
In order to understand your own walking, you must first understand mountains walking.
The 20 tap tasting room serves Gustav’s creations, many made with area-native wild yeasts. During my visit, I chose a flight from a set of 13 different beers. All were delicious.
Check out these yeastie boys
Beyond Bozeman
We left Bozeman wishing we could have stayed longer. Our travel took us south to Yellowstone National Park. Along the way, we made a short stop in the small town of Three Forks, Montana. In Three Forks, we found the historic Sacajawea Hotel. Built in 1910, this hotel is beautiful and steeped in history. Within the hotel, the Sacajawea Bar serves a range of Montana craft beers.
Sacajawea Hotel – a Historic Hotels of America destination
Just a few miles away, we visited the headwaters of the Missouri River. In this spot, the Jefferson and Madison Rivers converge. And the Gallatin River joins them one mile downstream to become the starting point of the Missouri River. Here, the Lewis and Clark Expedition accomplished one of their primary goals: to explore the Missouri River to its source.
The Missouri River headwaters
From the Missouri headwaters, we traveled to Yellowstone National Park. Did you know that Yellowstone National Park has its very own craft beer? But wait, that’s a story for another day!
A story for another day
Final Thoughts
Beer can provide the inspiration and mechanism to discover, explore and learn about an area. Brewing and beer are typically interwoven into a region’s history, geography, industry, economy, culinary, and social fabric.
Beer has played a major role in Montana’s history, industry, economy and culture. Hence, no exploration of Montana would even be complete without some understanding of how beer influenced and continues to influence this region.
The Beer Now Conference provided the catalyst for our “beercation” to discover western Montana. Our “beercation” provided a rewarding and unique approach to traveling. Maybe my writings will inspire you to take a “beercation”. Cheers!